A Meanderer's Guide to East Lothian

Right on the edge of our hometown of Edinburgh sits East Lothian, one of Scotland’s most beautiful coastal escapes. With golden sands, sweeping beaches, stunning ocean views, world-class golf courses and a thriving food and drink scene, it’s the perfect place to breathe in the sea air and soak up all that this coastline has to offer.

For the founders of Meander, it’s a much-loved weekend retreat, a place to reset with long beach walks with the dog, early morning swims, and relaxed summer lunches overlooking Gullane Golf course. Throughout this guide, we’ve shared some of our personal favourite spots across the region.

The furthest point, Dunbar, is only around an hour’s drive from the centre of Edinburgh, and the journey there rewards you with some of Scotland’s most beautiful coastal views. Alternatively, one of our favourite ways to travel is by bike, following the scenic coastal route to North Berwick, stopping for fish and chips by the harbour before hopping on the train back to Edinburgh Waverley.

              Left: View of the bay from Drift   Right: Gullane Beach, both taken by Jill Henry

This sandy beach is perfect for catching some rays in the summertime, it’s a popular spot for surfers, and even the more rugged parts provide the perfect opportunity for rockpooling. This gorgeous beach also looks onto a true East Lothian landmark known as Bass Rock, an uninhabited volcanic plug that sits approximately one mile off the coast. If you’re interested in birdwatching, this towering island is home to the largest colony of Northern Gannets on the planet! Sir David Attenborough even described it as ‘One of the wildlife wonders of the world.’ Day trips to this privately owned island are available to book through the Scottish Seabird Centre. 

If you’ve ever visited Edinburgh and looked out along the East Coast shoreline from Arthurs Seat or Portobello Beach, you’ve probably asked yourself ‘What is that pointy hill in the distance?’. The answer would be North Berwick Law, one of the most recognisable landmarks in East Lothian thanks to its conical shape and famous whalebone arch that adorns its peak. Located right on the edge of North Berwick town, it’s perfectly positioned for a morning hike followed by a mooch around the local shops or a refreshing pint in a local pub. 

              Left: Bass Rock by @corners_of_the_coast   Right: North Berwick Law by @davidmajesticphotography

Held on the last Saturday of each month, the Haddington Farmers Market is an independent institution bringing together local craftspeople and foodies, providing a one-stop-shop for all things food and drink. This is the perfect place to find yourself a bite to eat, and a locally-made memento from your travels. Perhaps you’ll find your next favourite tipple, or the missing piece to your Sunday roast. Whilst you’re in the area, make sure to meander along to the Haddington House gardens and explore the gorgeous greenery surrounding the historic grounds.

What more could any animal lover ask for than spending the day with some gorgeous alpacas?! This gorgeous herd stands at 50 members strong, and is located just outside Dunbar. The farm is named after the Scottish-American nature conservationist John Muir, and his influences are felt strongly throughout the experience. Start off by meeting the alpacas on their home turf, and once you’ve created a bond, you can then take them for a stroll along the beach and nearby woodlands. We’re booking our next experience now! 

Looming over the verge of a cliff in the northern edge of East Lothian is Tantallon Castle. Not only is this Stronghold the site of many sieges and battles, but it is also a site that film and TV aficionados may recognise as it has featured in films such as A24’s Under The Skin starring Scarlest Johansson, and Netflix’s A Castle for Christmas. The castle’s unique cliff-side setting and centuries of history make for a perfect stop on a day out by the sea side.

Left: John Muir Alpacas   Right: Tantallon Castle by @roanlavery

Belhaven Bay is very well known for its natural prime surfing spot. Whether you’re a spectator or participant, a visit to the beach to watch the waves go by is never a bad way to spend the day. Join in on the beginner classes held by local surf schools, or bring along your own board and hunt the wave peaks as they move up and down the long stretch of the bay. 

When visiting East Lothian, you’re never far away from a picturesque Golf Course. Choose from seaside views, rolling hills, or landscapes that stretch on for miles, keen golfers are spoiled for choice! We recommend checking out Gullane Golf Course for a small slice of luxury. Their historic grounds are known worldwide for their spectacular quality, and are reckoned to be some of the best in the world by keen players. Even if you’re not into golf to play, we highly recommend lunch at the Old Club House with stunning views over the course. 

Surfers at Belhaven Bay by @pete_jph

If you fancy a bit of luxury R&R during your East Lothian getaway, The Archerfield House Spa is the perfect answer. With options for Day Spa visits or Resident Services, this pocket of luxury is available to anyone who wishes for some relaxation. From facials to reflexology, a day at Archerfield will leave you feeling rejuvenated from head to toe. Not to mention, the spa itself is simply gorgeous. Based in a cottage within the house grounds, this unique setting provides the ultimate opportunity for visitors to detach from the outside world for a little while and immerse themselves in true serenity. 

If you’re looking for a bit more of a guided outdoor experience, we’d highly recommend checking out our friends at Ocean Vertical. Based just outside of Dunbar, Mollie Hughes and her team specialise in providing accessible experiences to everyone, from paddle boarding to coasteering and hillwalking. It’s the perfect opportunity to try something new in a safe space where you’re guided by experts who aim to give you the best experience possible. Our co-founder Steve tried this coasteering and can highly recommend it.

Coasteering by Ocean Vertical

For a piece of Scottish history, we’d recommend paying the team at Belhaven Brewery a visit. This long-standing institution dates all the way back to 1719, making it the oldest working brewery in the country. Sample the drinks that have been labelled as Scotland’s best ale and stout, discover the long journey that led to their perfection, and don’t forget to pick up a wee souvenir bottle or two! If you have some extra time on your hands, the beautiful Belhaven Bay is only 500 steps away from the brewery so you can easily fit two experiences into the one day. 

This is a fantastic option for any nature lover. The Scottish Seabird Centre, based in North Berwick, holds tours throughout the year that visit the chain of four seabird islands, home to colonies of all kinds of fascinating species from Guillemots, to Seals and Dolphins. However, our favourite simply has to be the Puffins that live on Craigleith Island! This accessible tour only takes around an hour, so it’s the perfect opportunity for a quick day adventure from the city. 

Held from the 31st July to the 6th August this year, this pop up mini-fringe in North Berwick is a popular option for Fringe-goers who want to avoid the crowds of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile and embrace the tranquil seaside and the slower life. With a full week-long itinerary ranging from music, to experiences, to talks and comedy shows, this is the perfect option for a mini adventure away from the city filled to the brim with entertainment and good vibes.

              Left: Isle of May Puffin by @adambulleyphotography   Right: Fringe by the Sea

This is a truly special spot, perfect for taking in the wonderful scenes that East Lothian has to offer. Get cosy by the log burner in the scandi style open plan living room, and bask in the sun rays beaming in from the skylights and wraparound balcony. The Lookout is situated on the edge of a private beach just outside of North Berwick, making it an ideal option for escaping the hustle and bustle and detoxing from your everyday life by the ocean. 

Dating back to 1890, this award-winning renovated barn has everything a Meanderer could wish for. The space is walking distance from both Yellowcraig Beach and North Berwick Law, making it a prime spot for anyone looking to get out and experience everything that North Berwick has to offer. Plus, it’s dog friendly so you can bring along your four-legged friends for a big family getaway. 

Not only is Archerfield home to a serene spa, the grounds are also brimming with luxurious accommodations. We’d recommend checking out either the timber-clad Lodges for a rustic, cabin-style getaway, or perhaps the Pavillion Suites are more your style with their classy interiors and modern amenities. Either way, you’ll be treated to beautiful surroundings and stellar service at every stage. 

         Archerfield Spa

Sister venue to the Michelin Star restaurant The Kitchin here in Edinburgh, The Bonnie Badger is breaking down barriers and bringing fine dining experiences to rural Scotland. Their ‘From Nature to Plate’ approach means that every menu consists of dishes that combine the rustic Scottish surroundings with techniques that inspire your senses. 

Whilst Meandering through North Berwick or Dunbar, we strongly suggest stopping for an afternoon treat at Bostock Bakery. This gem of a local bakery offers an array of options to fuel you for your adventure. Choose from the beautifully displayed bakes and pastries, or perhaps one of their savoury options will catch your eye. We’d recommend stocking up on a bit of both and taking your haul down to the beach on a sunny day for a seaside picnic of champions!

You simply can’t go on a trip to the seaside without sampling some of the local seafood, and the Lobster Shack on North Berwick Harbour is the perfect place! Their menu consists of everything from crab rolls, to seafood chowder, to their famous lobster and fries. This takeaway spot is perfectly positioned for a meander along the beach whilst tucking in to your seafood delights, just be sure to avoid the seagulls!

       Left: @bostockbakery  Right: North Berwick harbour and the Lobster Shack by @lobstershacknb

If you fancy a coffee with a view, the award-winning cafe Drift has you covered. Although it’s a bit off of the beaten track, sitting on the coast between Dunbar and North Berwick, Drift is a popular meeting place for meanderers thanks to its proximity to Seacliff Beach and its gorgeous views of Bass Rock, alongside some seriously tasty coffee and lunch options. It’s also a gorgeous stop off if you are cycling along the coast from Edinburgh. If you’re partial to a seaside sauna then just next door is Escape Sauna, with stunning views of the bay.

As mentioned earlier, one of our favourite ways to spend a sunny day off is to cycle along the gorgeous route to North Berwick, taking in all of the wonderful sights along the Firth of Forth coastline, and end up at the North Berwick Diner and Fry for a proper fish and chips. A leisurely cycle back home is fitting after a big lunch, stopping along the way to take in the sights, however we tend to take the 30 minute train back through to the city as a treat. 

Steampunk Coffee is a firm favourite amongst the whole team. Located right in the centre of North Berwick, it makes for the perfect stop off for a great cup of coffee and a mandatory sweet treat, in between meandering the coastal paths and browsing the array of independent shops North Berwick has to offer. And trust us, the coffee really is top notch; it's roasted on-site, and made by people who are seriously passionate about coffee.

       Left: Sauna at Drift   Right: Steampunk Coffee, images by Steve Henry

We hope these recommendations come in handy if you ever visit this beautiful part of Scotland. If you do manage to visit any of our top spots, then be sure to let us know and tag us on socials @meanderapparel. Happy exploring!